Toto, we're not in the Phils anymore...

This next week finds Batch 267 Volunteers at Mid-Service Training, which is the midpoint of our Peace Corps training cycle. Along with three days of training, the days are accompanied also by doctor and dentist appointments, catching up with other Volunteers, mustache competitions (or, as some have interpreted it, hairy mole competitions), and some downtime away from site. Being opportunists, my sitemate Angela and I decided to take advantage of the paid flight to Manila and vacation for a week before in two of the must-see destinations here.

Last Friday, we took the last flight to Manila and wound up at the bus station at 1 AM. Excited to take a night bus and arrive in Baguio in the morning in order to give us a full day of sightseeing, our hopes were dashed when we found out the first bus we could get on was at 6 AM. So, what to do in Manila overnight when you don’t want to pay for a pension house? Well, you can catch the tail-end of live music, go on a search for your favorite flavor of ice cream at one of the 24/7 mini-stops, wander the streets, or make skype calls, since 4 AM in the Philippines turns out to be an ideal time for much of the world. When the time rolled around, we returned to the bus station, very tired and only slightly annoyed that our bus left a half-hour after the scheduled time. Without much sleep, we were able to take in the beauty of the Cordillera Mountains as we drove.

Our two days in Baguio proved fruitful both for recuperation and time with friends. With good timing, some other Volunteers and our great friends were spending time there after their Thanksgiving celebration in more northern Sagada. We ventured through the 100-year-old city that was designed by Americans as a mountain retreat and health center. Nestled at 1500 meters above sea level, the cold air was refreshing as we hiked around the city and created our adventures—getting lost on a hike only to be saved by a Filipino with a bamboo ladder to help us down a wall of rock, enjoying delicious meals while wondering if our waiters even worked at the restaurant at all (or which drugs they were on), and traversing historical areas and museums and wondering why they were even turned into museums at all. Baguio, as a city, is certainly different than much of the Philippines—people are extremely (genuinely) friendly, English skills are impressive, and the city is both incredibly lively and safe. It is no wonder why it is officially the “Summer Home of the Philippines”.

With our satisfaction in Baguio, we ventured next on a very curvy 6 ½ hour bus ride around the edges of mountains to the town of Sagada. Looking forward to the cooler weather, we discovered that a cold front had come in the same night that we arrived—meaning we spent days in long underwear, gloves, scarves, and hats. Temperatures dipped perhaps into the 40s (4-10 degrees Celsius), which amplifies its edge when houses are not insulated and there is no heating source. Nighttime was spent huddled under the covers in almost all of the clothes that we had packed—FYI, sleeping in a raincoat makes every toss and turn pretty noisy. Additionally, showers were few and far between since the cold breeze in the open-air shower room counteracted the only slightly lukewarm water. Fortunately, Sagada makes up for the cold with its general enchantment, incredible sights, and delicious food.

On our first full day, we set out to meet up with our guide to take us on a 4-hour caving expedition. We were both excited and nervous as we headed out of our pension house. The first sign of a challenging day, though, came when I slipped on the stairs and tumbled to the bottom, like the occasional klutz that I am. In a combination of laughter and pain, I announced to the several people in the restaurant that had seen my fall that I was okay. I rose to my feet like a tough kid and brushed myself off with an embarrassed laugh. Unfortunately, though, I knew that I had hurt myself a bit when I had reached for the railing with my right arm and my shoulder sustained an unexpected yank. But I can tackle a cave, right? We met our guide and hiked out of town to the trailhead and the opening of the cave, complete with stacks of hanging coffins that are part of the local cultural burial practices. We climbed over a few boulders towards the entrance, and I noticed that I was unable to put pressure on my right arm without pain. So, the decision had to be made. The caving included intense climbing, crawling, maneuvering, and hanging from ropes. My arm definitely wasn’t going to make it. Angry at myself for being such a klutz, I headed back to town to wallow in cups of lemon tea and internet. A few hours later, Angela returned and the pictures looked amazing. Maybe someday, I can go back and tackle that cave once and for all.

The next day, we ventured out on two hikes to a waterfall and a lookout with beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and rice terraces. Both were stunning. The highlight of the day was trying to find our way on a return “trail” through fields and rice paddies. More of a guessing game, we found ourselves balancing along the edges of terraces, climbing rock walls, getting our feet stuck in the mud, crossing rivers, and getting lost in gardens. We returned to our pension house for a refreshing nap.

Meals were also the highlight of our days spent in Sagada. According to Lonely Planet, there are two restaurants worth a visit—and we did visit them, again and again. Homemade yogurt with granola, French toast soaked in maple syrup, homemade spinach fettuccine, tomato soup, cheese sauce, zucchini, fresh vegetables, lemon tea, chocolate chip cookies, strawberries—it was all a delight. Sagada has by far the best food that we have eaten in the Philippines in the last year and four months.

All in all, the pine trees, cold, fireplaces, and general goodwill of the people put us in the Christmas mood. If we had to create a soundtrack for the week, there is no doubt that it would contain nothing else but Christmas carols. Personally, this getaway was just the refreshing push I needed to get me through the holidays in the Philippines.

While we are heading back to Manila on Friday, it is by no means the end of our vacation. Before training begins, we get to spend the weekend relaxing with other Volunteers, getting our teeth cleaned, seeing The Christmas Carol, enjoying Dairy Queen Blizzards, and skyping with loved ones. The conference itself is also bound to be enjoyable—sharing ideas and experiences with other Volunteers always proves to be therapeutic and energizing.